Sri Lanka: A Tropical Serenity

I’m the go-to person in my family for vacation ideas and itineraries. But for some strange reason I kept foiling all plans related to Sri Lanka – it was too close, too familiar. But a recent trip to the teardrop-shaped country made me a convert as I discovered a beguiling mix of history, culture, adventure, cuisine, and relaxation. 

Sri Lanka is back on the tourism radar after a series of setbacks in the last decade, including a deadly bomb attack, the Covid-19 pandemic, the country’s worst economic crisis and the tectonic regime change. Its numerous cultural attractions, sacred pilgrimage sites, national parks, tea plantations, laid-back beach towns, and welcoming locals translated into a ranking of 9 on the BBC’s 25 Best Places to Travel in 2025. 

Travellers typically want to explore the island’s unbeatable beach-and-surf scene at the many gorgeous beach towns: Galle, Tangalle, Weligama, Ahangama, Unawatuna, Hikkaduwa, and Bentota. 

“However, the cultural triangle, located in the heart of the country, deserves a visit as it showcases our rich heritage and has five UNESCO World Heritage Sites,” says Sanjaya, a tour guide in Bentota. 

The cultural core includes Sigiriya, an ancient rock fortress that rises 600 ft above the thick jungle and was Prince Kashyapa’s royal palace in the 5th century before being used as a Buddhist monastery. Sri Lanka’s first capital, Anuradhapura, was founded in the 4th century and is an important pilgrimage site – it’s home to a sacred fig tree that’s said to be an offspring of the Bodhi tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment. 

“Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka’s second capital, is rich in ruins: palaces, buildings, and shrines are scattered over 1,100 sq. miles,” Sanjaya says. 

Kandy, the last capital of the ancient kings, is worth visiting on account of the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, said to house one of the Buddha's teeth. Head south from Kandy and you’ll reach the green hilly region that has made Sri Lanka the fourth largest tea producer in the world. Nuwara Eliya, Hatton, and Ella, surrounded by misty mountains, are known Ceylon tea grown in more than 400 plantations. 

“Tea was introduced by the British in the 19th century, and is now an integral part of Sri Lank’s culture,” says Pavithra Denipitiya, who works at a tea plantation. She adds that a train network was developed to help transport goods, including tea, to ports. 

Travelling by train is one of the best ways to experience the countryside as Sri Lanka offers some really great rail journeys. The best routes? The 125-km Colombo-to-Kandy ride, which takes you past undulating hills, verdant forests, and paddy fields; and the 120-km Colombo-Galle track, the country’s best coastal rail trip that seems to bring the sea spray inside the train. Other options include the Kandy-Ella and Nuwara Eliya-Hatton lines. 

I find that the beach towns, which offer a more relaxed pace of life, are as popular – if not more. The country's coastline, approximately 1,340 km long, stretches down from Colombo and offers choices aplenty. 

Weligama and Mirissa are popular surf destinations while Ahangama is the latest hip kid on the block. Bentota offers a chance to explore master architect Geoffrey Bawa’s labour of love, Lunuganga, and the beautifully landscaped Brief Garden while Hikkaduwa is known for a turtle hatchery and Tsunami Museum, which commemorates the 30,000 lives lost in Sri Lanka in 2004.  Last but definitely not the least is the jewel in the crown: the fortified coastal city of Galle, which was founded by the Portuguese in 1588 and offers a fascinating glimpse into the country’s colonial past. 

As I travel, I learn that Sri Lanka has the highest biodiversity in Asia, and is home to as many as 25 National Parks that house leopards, elephants, sloth bears, and water buffalo.  Yala National Park is among the most popular as it’s known for leopard sightings. Head to Kumana National Park if you want to avoid the crowds, and to Wasgamuwa National Park for splendid views of the deeply forested mountains and the meandering Mahaweli Ganga river.

At Chundikulam National Park, the birding experiences are extraordinary while Uda Walawe National Park is the best park in the south for elephant-spotting. But the best place to see elephant herds is Minneriya National Park where they head to the large reservoir during the hot months to feed and bathe. 

It’s clear Sri Lanka may be small in size, but it’s big on experiences. No wonder that tourist numbers are rising. In 2024, the country welcomed more than 2 million visitors, with strong arrivals from India, Russia, and the UK. It aims to continue its upward trajectory in tourism, with a target of 3 million visitors for 2025. 

Apart from the warm and welcoming vibe, the delicious food also has a role to play – it keeps travellers satiated and happy as they go about their days. The coastal location means that Sri Lanka is a veritable paradise for seafood lovers, but vegetarians and vegans needn’t despair. The abundance of fruits and vegetables, including aubergine, coconut, okra, beetroot, potato, jackfruit, breadfruit, and snake gourd, means a variety of curries, stir-fries, and salads. The use of coconut milk and coconut oil (instead of ghee or milk-based products) ensures plenty of options for vegans. 

An array of flavours and spices makes Sri Lankan food unique and also showcases the country’s diverse and complex historical past: be it Muslim Malay dishes such as Malay achcharu (also known as Malay pickle), lamprais, a Dutch-influenced baked rice and curry dish, or Indian-origin dishes like vadai (lentil fritters) and pittu (steamed rice flour mixed with grated coconut). 

The food options for vegans are delectable – and numerous. “Rice and hoppers are best accompanied by a wide variety of curries, including raw mango, tomato, and cashews. Other foods include kottu roti, pol roti (coconut flatbread), other flatbreads, and a range of rice varieties and recipes (such as kiribath/coconut rice),” says Deepak Barua, Executive Chef, Anantara Kalutara Resort. 

The desserts offer a variety of flavours, be it Aasmi, a common New Year food; kokis, much like Kerala’s rose cookies; kavum, spiced oil cakes; bibikkan, Sri Lankan coconut cake; and watalappam, the delicately spiced egg custard pudding.

As I sit looking at the waves gently lapping against the shore, I realise that I came to Sri Lanka unenthused, thinking I would find similar landscapes, familiar faces, and indistinguishable food. I had to eat my words – literally! Far from offering too much of a muchness, the Pearl of the Indian Ocean is a matchless destination.