A Tibetan Escape in the Capital

Representative Image

At Tibet Kitchen in Monastery, a stone’s throw away from Vidhan Sabha Metro Station, I was introduced for the first time to Tingmo. This big sized steamed bread, which has a soft and fluffy texture, is perhaps the unique selling point of this Tibetan restaurant. It is a kind of steamed bun which is similar to Chinese flower rolls.  

Interestingly, it did not contain any kind of filling. In fact, Tingmo doesn’t have any filling. If it has mutton or chicken then it is called Momo. Interestingly, this variant of momo comes in Thakali Thali, a traditional Nepali thali originating from the Thakali community in Mustang region of the Himalayan kingdom. 

The thali, available at Rs 300, was impressive in look and it was a kind of hearty, balanced meal typically served on a platter that will fill your belly for the rest of the day. It included a variety of dishes like chicken chowmein, served in less quantity but has distinctive Tibetan flavour. 

But why Tibetan dishes like Tingmo and momos are in a Nepali thali?  Well, this has to do with historical linkages. Tibetans, who were facing atrocities of the People’s Liberation Army, fled to adjoining Nepal. Since a majority of them migrated to Kathmandu, one can see an amalgamation of Nepalese and Tibetan cuisines. 

This is the reason why Tibet Kitchen, which serves exotic stuff at their original eatery in Mcleodganj, gives so much importance to Thakali Thali.  You might ask what is the similarity between Tibetan and Nepalese cuisines. Well not much. Both cuisines have non-veg ingredients like buffalo meat, chicken and pork. Other common ingredients are bamboo, an assortment of veggies like cauliflower and ginger. 

To appeal to the Indian palate, Tibet Kitchen has introduced fresh and radiant looking indigenous sauces. After dipping them with Sichuan chili sauce, I found Chicken Momos lip smacking. The dumplings had freshness written all over them. My first bite was juicy beyond belief. 

Interestingly, Tibetan food has some similarities with Chinese cuisine. Both have noodles, soup, chilly chicken, and yes, the yummy chicken chowmein. While savouring chicken momos, half-moon in shape, I found them to be original, juicy, hot, delicious, and served with hot sauce.

 I found them to be as tasty as they were in the Tibet Kitchen at Mcleodganj. I was also instantly reminded of Jiaozi, a type of Chinese dumpling, that I had eaten while I was on a fortnight long visit to Singapore. 

At Monastery market, I also tried Nepali momos which are normally round like Baozi, a type of yeast leavened filled bun. They can also be used in soup, as in Jhol Momos and Mokthuk.

However, Chilly Chicken at Tibet Kitchen was a tad disappointing. But I think it is an acquired taste. Chicken pieces were slightly hard to chew but quite delicious. This perhaps has to do with geography. The hilly people, especially those from Tibet - a land with vast geographic areas, abundant livestock, particularly yak - like their meat a bit stiff. 

Interestingly, Yak meat is available in local food shops at Monastery. It can be eaten with momos when the weather is cold as this variant of meat is quite heavy. For those, who want to enjoy Tibetan food without eating the forbidden beef, need to steer clear of it.  

The owner, Tenzing, whose father runs Tibet Kitchen, comes across as an affectionate, warm young man, who dreams to make this eatery as one of the most frequented restaurants in Delhi. 

“Actually, we are serving authentic food. Thukpa and Chicken Mokthuk, which are like swimming momos, are some of our prized dishes. Our Delhi restaurant has a mix of flavourful dishes and our hospitality is such that people keep coming back. We give full customer service.” 

To tap the Generation X, Tibet Kitchen also boasts of a new menu. “We have added croissants and sandwiches. Some youngsters dip croissants in coffee and then eat them.  For teenagers, who want to come here for summer vacations, there are refreshing beverages,” he added. 

Tibetans have retained authenticity of their dishes whether they live in Mcleodganj, which is home to Dalai Lama, or Monastery, where Tibetan shops of souvenirs and eateries, situated cheek by jowl, do brisk business all the year round. 

Through restaurants and street food carts, the Tibetan refugees introduced momos to India, although other groups are claiming this. Unlike exotic dishes like Vietnamese Baut, the Tibetan momo has an Indian flavour. It is a healthy snack compared to the usual fried snacks like the oily samosas and kachoris.

Momos are available in beef and pork variants at this restaurant. Before food you need to check out the labyrinthine Tibetan market, where you get garments, Buddhas, incense and items that have come all the way from Lhasa. The place has a feel-good vibe to it.